The Riedenburg Brewery

So this is where it took place, the revolution in the beer glass? The location is idyllic for a revolution: the town of Riedenburg in Lower Bavaria. It is on the northernmost point of Lower Bavaria, on the bank of the Altmühl, which has cut deeply into the hilly landscape. Rosenburg Castle is enthroned on one of the limestone cliffs above the town and looks down on the roofs of the old town, on the Altmühl – and on the Riedenburg Brewery on the other bank.

Here, Michael Krieger and his son Maximilian brew beer together with around 30 other staff. Things are done a bit differently here than elsewhere – and that can be seen and is evident in the taste. In 1994, Riedenburger was the first brewery in Germany to become fully organic. To the more traditional brewing industry, that seemed like a revolution.

Michael Krieger began to use malt from traditional grains as early as the 1980s. Einkorn, emmer and spelt are not just ideal for organic farming; they also have a positive effect on the taste, thanks to their high protein content.

Taste is the real keyword for the son, Maximilian Krieger. The 35-year-old manages the stylish brewery together with his father. He is following the organic path of his parents – but he too is bringing about a small revolution: Maximilian Krieger has paired their own beer traditions with international influences. The key term is craft beer; in other words, handcrafted, characterful beers.

That is what Maximilian Krieger is creating in Riedenburg. He is supported in this by the craft beer pioneers of the Brooklyn Brewery from New York. “Interestingly, the Americans are introducing ideas which are not actually new in Bavaria, but have gone out of fashion. Dry-hopping (Hopfenstopfen) for example”. This method sees the hops being added to the brew after it has cooled. This sees the aromatic hop oils released, resulting in fruity nuances.

A conflict of generations? Far from it!

What did your parents think of these new ideas? “They were mainly curious. And to be honest: What my parents have done with beer from einkorn, emmer and spelt – that was really nothing other than craft beer. It is just that this term wasn’t used in the 1980s.”